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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.