Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
